A week in Brighton

Managed to get through the week quite well, though with too little sleep and comparatively little partying. For the amount of sleep anyway. Brighton's rather fresh, though when the sun's shining, it's also very enjoyable. In the sun, hordes of Brightonians lounge on the pebble beach at the end of each day.

On Saturday, Felicia and I visited the Brighton Museum and art gallery. An interesting exhibit compared classical paintings in pairs, where visitors were expected to write their views of the paintings on postcards, to leave them with the paintings at the exhibit.
Brighton, besides being considered the gay capital of the UK, is also a prominent destination for hen and stag parties. We saw quite a few on Saturday, including a cluster of Oompa Loompas. Also, I've run into some five or six film shoots.
And what's the deal with all the Iranians?

Instead of a hotel, we were staying in an apartment. Not only is this significantly cheaper, we also had loads of room. Two large bedrooms, a sizable living and a roomy kitchen. And free hi speed internet (at some point, I was clocking in nearly 1MB per second using bittorrent).
However, on my last night, I had to move to a hotel. I didn't want to go for the cheapest option available (25 Pounds per night), wanting some comfort. I ended up at the Old Ship Hotel, close to the pier, at 40 Pounds per night.
There's nothing really wrong with the place, but the rooms are small and internet is expensive, at an additional 15 Pounds per 24 hours.

Also what I don't get is where these places still get the nerve from to charge horrific amounts for phone calls. A note on my desk told me that a 5 minute call to Australia would cost me 32 Pounds. Using Skype, this would be probably less than 50 cents. A 5 minute phonecall to a UK cellphone is less: 15 Pounds. Only.

From Jo’burg to Brighton

I’m leaving South Africa behind for a while. I’m off for a week to Brighton, followed by three to six months in Thailand. Yebo. Back to HDN, to work on improving ovcsupport.net, an online toolkit (that is, a collection of publications), around orphans and vulnerable children.
Can’t wait for the Brighton Rock.

Supposed to leave on Sunday night, after an excellent hash party thrown by Rouzeh, Virgin’s flight to London Heathrow was cancelled because due to some bad planning, no pilot was available in Johannesburg to fly the plane to the UK. Though it’s understandable for people to make the occasional mistakes, only a week earlier the exact same thing had happened when an Alliance colleague (my project is run through the Alliance) suffered from the same mistake.
I finally arrived Monday night, missing the Brighton hash. Sharing an apartment with Felicia, I’ve got a view of the sea from my room.

Brighton is surprisingly affordable.

Meanwhile, after Christo had gone off to Holland for over three weeks, he came back last weekend, meaning we had another stab at winning the weekly quiz at the Keg in Sunninghill. With ‘quizmaster Lloyd’ we hadn’t yet, since my return last year, managed to get a prize but this time, we somehow turned the tables and won. And that was with minimal cheating.
We won foldable chairs with a built in drinks container.

Techie stuff

I’ve been using Xoopit for a while now, which is a handy add-on to Gmail. For example, they list all participants of an email discussion in one handy list and index all your received files.
One thing that was long overdue for Gmail was the linking of your contacts to existing social networks. Finally, Xoopit has done it. Besides the list of contacts from any one conversation, you now also get to see their latest Facebook status updates. Granted, there’s a long way to go (why only list Facebook?), but it’s a start.

New year

21 March, the start of spring, marks the beginning of the Persian new year. Rouzeh threw a small party, which saw myself, Elvis (that is, Peter) and his fiancee Patience enjoy a relaxed evening at Rouzeh’s place in Pretoria.

For Iranians, the new year is called ‘Nowruz’, meaning ‘new day’, though the Farsi transliteration, due to the many Farsi dialects, knows some 20 different varieties. The term Nowruz first appeared only in the second century AD, but at least since the Achaemenid era, possibly from as early as 600BC onwards, did the official year start with the spring equinox, which occurs around the 21st of March, the beginning of spring, when, in the northern Hemisphere, the length of the day starts to overtake the length of the night.
It’s not unlikely that the geographical spread of the Achaemenid empire resulted in the current widespread celebrations of Nowruz. Not only is Nowruz celebrated from northwestern China through central Asia to the Crimea, it’s also observed in parts of Albania, Bosnia, Kosovo and Macedonia. Furthermore, the Jewish Purim festival is said to derive from the Persian new year and, of course, the Romans, up to around 150BC, celebrated the start of the new year at the start of spring as well (though they started at the ides of March, the 15th, which incidentally was also the date Caesar was killed), hence September being called the seventh month, October the 8th, etc. Incidentally, when the Romans realigned the start of the new year to January, the month was named after the two-faced god Janus, one for looking back and one for looking forward.
Nowruz was, most likely, first celebrated by Zoroastrians. Though that religion, considered to be the ‘father’ of all monotheistic religions, only entered historical records around the time the Achaemenids are known to have started to observe Nowruz, the religion’s founder, Zarathushtra, considered by the ancient Greeks to be the father of both magic and astrology, might have lived around the year 1000BC.

The reason for celebrating the new year on the first day of spring, however, is shrouded in history, besides being a reasonably obvious choice as a point of yearly rebirth. One myth, related in Ferdowsi’s Shahnameh, tells of the legendary king Jamshid, who had an elaborate throne constructed, after which he was celebrated by all the world’s creatures, calling the day of the celebrations Nowruz.
Historical indications to back this up include Persepolis, known to Iranians as Takhte-e-Jamshid, the throne of Jamshid. There, processions etched in stone are considered by some scholars to represent the bringing of gifts by peoples from all over the king’s empire.
Perhaps more interestingly, the king Jamshid might symbolize the transition of the Indo-Iranians from animal hunting to animal husbandry, basically commemorating the time when Iranians settled on the Iranian plateau after traveling from Europe, around the Caspian sea, to what is now Iran.

Those in Europe who celebrate Nowruz as the start of the new year are typically ethnic minorities who entered Europe during the Turkish rule of south-east Europe. This includes the Bektashi in Albania, an Islamic Sufi order. But they aren’t the only ones. Some pagan Europeans celebrated the start of the new year with the start of spring until the late middle ages.

Perhaps not so surprisingly, Islam has had a bit of a love/hate relationship with Nowruz. As it originated before the arrival of the prophet, that is, Muahammad, it’s sometimes considered un-islamic. Khomeini, in his first post-revolution speech, declared that Nowruz would not be celebrated as long as the world suffered from injustice. Which, I suppose, would be as long man lives.
Nevertheless, the two-week celebrations surrounding the new year in Iran are still the most important holiday there, even though leaders like Khamenei and Ahmadinejad both have tried to downplay the festivities, but with little success.

In Iran, new year’s celebrations and traditions are comparable to everywhere else. They involve drinking and dancing, but also jumping over bonfires, to cleanse oneself, the cleaning of the house, buying of new clothes and, interestingly, the purchase of flowers. Gifts are exchanged and families are visited.
Jumping over the bonfires is done on the evening before the last Wednesday of the year and it’s called ‘Red Wednesday’ and celebrates the light winning over the darkness, an obvious reference to Zoroastrianism.
Also, according to tradition, the living are visited by the spirits of their ancestors in the last days of the year. Kids, re-enacting these visits, wrapped in shrouds, run through the streets banging on pots and pans, knocking on doors, asking for treats. The link to fireworks with new year’s celebrations seems obvious and I suspect there might be a link with Hallowe’en as well, though that is said to derive from the Celtic festival of Samhain (“summer’s end”), possibly also the beginning of the Celtic new year, and the Christian All Saints day, which doesn’t seem to have a clear historical origin.

Probably the most interesting part of Iranian Nowruz celebrations are the haft sin, Persian for seven ‘S’s, a group of seven items starting with the letter s. An Iranian family celebrating Nowruz will collect these seven items and have them on display for the new year. These seven items symbolize the Seven Bounteous Creations from Zoroastrianism. These are sky, water, earth, plants, animals, man and fire. As Zoroastrianism sees the physical world as a natural matrix of these seven creations in which life and growth are interdependent, mankind has been tasked, as the only conscious creation, with caring for the universe, with the final goal being harmony and perfection.

However, three thousand years of tradition can’t be left unchanged. Now, the seven ‘S’s and their representations are:

  • Sabzeh: wheat, barley or lentil sprouts, symbolizing rebirth.
  • Samanu: a sweet pudding made from wheat germ, symbolizing affluence.
  • Senjed: the dried fruit of the oleaster, or Russian-olive, tree, symbolizing love.
  • Sir: garlic, symbolizing medicine.
  • Sib: apples, symbolizing beauty and health.
  • Somaq: sumac berries, symbolizing (the color of) sunrise.
  • Serkeh: vinegar, symbolizing age and patience.

Obviously, it might not always be too easy to get the right items together and some ‘S’s are sometimes replaced by others:

  • Sonbol: the fragrant hyacinth flower, symbolizing the coming of spring.
  • Sekkeh: coins for prosperity and wealth.
  • Sa’at: a clock.
  • Sepand or sepanj or esfand: seeds of wild rue often placed in a small incense burner and burned just after the turn of the year.
  • Siah-dane: black seeds.
  • Si-Ni: the tray designed for carrying haft sin items from place to place.

And other items might show up as well, not necessarily starting with the letter s, but typically having some obvious symbolical, historical or spiritual meaning. A cute add-on is sometimes a gold fish, in a bowl (which Rouzeh did have), symbolizing both life and the fact that the sun is leaving the zodiacal sign of pisces at the start of spring.
Another interesting add on are decorated, painted, eggs, with the egg being a symbol of rebirth, which was later adopted by early Christians as a symbol of Jesus’ rebirth. Indeed, sculptures on the walls of Persepolis show people carrying eggs to the king, Jamshid.
And, if you’re wondering, the introduction of the Easter Bunny derives from the Saxon celebrations surrounding the spring equinox, where the spring goddess Eostre (‘Easter’) was personified by the hare.

Then, on the thirteenth day of the new year, with the twelve constellations of the zodiac controlling the months of the year and each ruling the earth for a thousand years, after which the sky and earth collapse in chaos, it’s time to sing and dance, typically at family picnics. The sabzeh, grown for the haft sin, is thrown into running water, to exorcise the demons from the household. A related tradition is the process of lying to someone and then making them believe it.

And then there’s the gentleman called Haji Firouz, Symbolizing the Sumerian god of sacrifice, killed at the end of each year, being reborn at the begging of the next, he usually has a face, painted black, symbolizing good luck, and is dressed in red.

Though the earliest historical records point to the Iranians being the source of Nowruz celebrations, some scholars believe that the they, as a whole, might have been borrowed by the Indo-Iranians from the Mesopotamians, whose land they occupied from the first millennium BC onwards.

And you thought it was only the beginning of spring.

So, the fish is still alive. Rouzeh wasn’t able to find sprouts, though I offered to find some Brussel’s sprouts for her. We played Scrabble till late and we didn’t jump over any fires.

The food critic

Perhaps I’ve not been posting much recently because, at last, I’ve become boring. Or, perhaps, there simply a temporary lull in my otherwise interesting (ahem) life. No trips, no events, no new projects. Be gone, you domesticating influence! Or it’s simply because internet hasn’t been working from home for the last seven days.

Recently, I had a superb curry at Geet, in Pretoria, a great Turkish dinner at Ala Turka in Centurion and a reasonable Greek experience at The Greek Easy Ouzaria, all with Rouzeh, but the best culinary experience in South Africa so far was last Friday at Doll House, a road house close to Houghton and Bramley. You drive up in your car, a huge menu is displayed on a billboard, and food is brought to you on a tray which is hung on the rolled down window of your car.
Ismail and I stopped by for a late night snack. The list of sandwiches included the ‘Popeye’. I asked what was in it and was told it had cheese, tomato and egg. Sounding decent and not being too hungry, I ordered one. When they brought in the food, the sandwich was humongous. it contained cheese, tomato and egg, but as a relish for what seemed a bucket of minced meat in between two toasted slices of bread.
Their banana milkshake, with real banana, exceptional in South Africa, was superb. Apparently, the road house has been going strong since at least 1949.

My project with SAfAIDS is slowly drawing to a close, at a mere two month delay. There might be a short stint in Thailand coming up. I might make it in time for Songkran.

A bad week and job feeds

It’s been a bad week:

+ On the way back from Botswana, I started feeling sick. Though the symptoms changed, I wasn’t getting any better. When I went to see a doctor on Wednesday, I was diagnosed with malaria.
Though my blood sample came back negative, it doesn’t mean I *don’t* have malaria. The medication is working well, though.

+ Coming back, at the border, I was given a seven day visa for South Africa. On Thursday, I stood in line at a Home Affairs office for 2.5 hours, without the queue moving *at all*. This is not an exaggeration. Still woozy from both malaria and drugs, I decided to go through an agent.

+ My bank decided to deduct 5000 Rand from my bank account which I did not withdraw.

+ Sitting behind the wheel of my car, sick and very sweaty, I bumped into the car in front of me at on Tuesday, at, like, 5 km/h.

+ Playing around with the online service Tagnics, the crappy service deleted 1800 titles and 1800 descriptions of my photos at Flickr.

DevNetJobs job feeds

A job listing website which I’ve felt ambivalent towards for a while is DevNetJobs. The guy who maintains the service does a good job by providing access to job vacancies in the development sector, many of them high profile.
However, if you, as a job seeker, want to benefit from his service optimally, you have to shelve out quite a bit of money, 44 to 48 dollars for every three months, depending whether you’re on auto-renewal or not. This, according to DevNetJobs, will result in 20 to 25 jobs being delivered to your inbox every day.

What I would want is to have some filtering options on these jobs. I’m not paying for the service, which means that every week or so, I get all jobs in one huge email, sometimes up to 350 individual jobs. As I’m not a paying user, I don’t get to ‘pick first’, but like paying users, I have to sift through each individual job offer to see whether they might apply to me.

What could help, is if these job listings were offered through RSS. Then, using an RSS client, you could set up certain rules which would allow you to only focus on the types of jobs you’re interested in. Also, the website is one of the ugliest out there.

So I figured I’d work a tiny bit of magic using feed43.com, which allows you to generate RSS feeds from web pages.

RSS feed of all jobs, posted on DevNetJobs.org
RSS feed of ICT jobs, posted on DevNetJobs.org
RSS feed of jobs in Geneva, posted on DevNetJobs.org
RSS feed of jobs in India, posted on DevNetJobs.org

As these feeds are the result of web pages being scraped. There’s no guarantee they’ll stay up.

Roadtrip

Mike, whom I traveled with from Livingstone to Kasane, hung around just long enough to travel back with us to Johannesburg. Not that he had too much of a choice, getting out of Kasane without your own transport is surprisingly tricky. As is finding decently priced accommodation.

We did the 15 hour trip in one day, starting just after 8 in the morning. By the time I crawled into bed, I had a true bedgasm.

On the downside, the immigration officer at the border only gave me a seven day visa. I now still have to visit home affairs. Exactly what I wanted to avoid by leaving the country in the first place.

Prank

Something funny I missed while in Thailand.

Arnold alerted me to this one.

Creationism

And in unrelated news, Holland seems to go the way of America with a group of Christian organizations publishing (in Dutch) a door-to-door brochure which denounces evolution as a mere theory and a form of religion, just like creationism, while pushing the latter.
That and Wilders climbing in the polls makes me shake my head in sad disgust

A day to relax or a monkey ate my rusk

With the high prices activities go for, it’s easy to take it easy. Christo, Dominique and Sander went out fishing, Mike took a walking tour of the village, or street, and I read the last of my Wireds Rouzeh had brought back for me from Holland.

In the morning, Christo was feeding the resident monkeys from our bedroom window, handing over packets of sugar as well as rusks. If you’re not South African, you’d probably be surprised at the speed the apes wolfed down the dry snacks.

Connectivity

In Zambia, I was able to receive phone calls and SMSs, but not to place or send them. In Botswana, it seemed I wasn’t able to do either, until a chat with a receptionist at the lodge revealed that some cell phone towers were not performing very well, blacking out the village regularly.

Internet access is bad. Though the village seems to have more internet cafes than shops, all provide a download speed akin to having to share a dialup modem with a group of keyboard bashing monkeys.
Trying to get online at “Broadband internet cafe” it literally took me 10 minutes to send one email.

From Zambia to Botswana, nearly a quadripoint

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Not far from Livingstone, four countries almost meet, but not quite. The Chobe and Zambezi rivers meet, shortly before the Zambezi river is split by a sandbank. The distance between these two natural formations is only a few hundred meters and it’s these few hundred meters which make up the border between Zambia and Botswana. In fact, because there’s no formal border agreement between Zambia and Botswana, the de facto Zambia/Botswana border is actually the gap between the the two nearby tri-nation border points.
To the west, the area between the Chobe and Zambezi rivers, is the Caprivi strip of Namibia. To the east, the earlier mentioned sandbank, is an outlier of Zimbabwe, though the actual border between Zimbabwe and Botswana runs east and south of the river split (thanks to aletheia kallos).
Indeed, in a few decades, if the courses of the rivers manage to change slightly and if the countries in question decide to update their borders accordingly, this might end up being the only place in the world were four countries actually meet. If the four countries would truly have met in one place, this would be called a quadripoint and there’s currently no international quadripoint where four countries meet in existence. Two quadripoints where fewer than four countries meet do exist. The first involves the Belgian enclave of Baarle-Hertog inside the Netherlands, the second the Austrian town of Jungholz inside Germany.
Aletheia, in the comment below, points out the potential existence of two secondary quadripoints on the Indian subcontinent. A secondary quadripoint is where four political subdivisions meet, not necessarily countries.

Nearly a quadripoint
Google Maps doesn’t get the borders exactly right, but you can see how close the four countries come to meeting up at a quadripoint.
The Caprivi strip was named after German Chancellor Leo von Caprivi, who negotiated the land in an 1890 exchange with the United Kingdom. Von Caprivi arranged for Caprivi to be annexed to German South-West Africa (now Namibia) in order to give Germany access to the Zambezi River and a route to Africa’s East Coast, where the German colony Tanganyika (now Tanzania) was situated. Although Livingstone had already found the Victoria Falls by then, it apparently hadn’t come to von Caprivi’s ears as, of course, the Zambezi is impossible to navigate across the falls.

The ride from Livingstone to the border is not even 90 minutes, the ferry takes only a few more and then it’s just over 10 kilometers to get to Kasane, on the Botswanan side. There, I was to meet Christo and two Dutch friends of his who were staying in the Chobe Safari Lodge. The Dutchees had claimed accommodation would only be some 30 or 40 euros per night.
I had done some online research and had gotten a bit worried. Prices for accommodation in and around Chobe national park seemed to range from 200 to 500 dollars per person per night. Indeed, this part of the region is catering primarily to very wealthy travelers.

When I hooked up with Christo, Dominique and Sander were out on a game drive and Christo seemed a bit downcast. Luckily, the rate wasn’t as bad as I feared, but still a good 100 dollars per night. That, combined with paid-for meals ranging from 12 dollars for a breakfast buffet to 16 for dinner made it quite a pricey undertaking to stay.

I traveled the two hours between the two cities with Mike, a chess teacher and freelance journalist on a sabbatical touring the globe. The lucky man was offered two nights sleep in one of the tents Christo had brought from Johannesburg. Accommodation doesn’t go for under 40 dollars in Kasane, but camping spots go for less than 10 dollars per night.

Vic Falls from the Zambian side: very pretty pictures

It’s a very often repeated adage that the Smoke That Thunders, Victoria Falls, is prettier from the Zimbabwean side. However, I’ve not yet known someone who was able to confirm this first hand. Until today. I took the free shuttle from JollyBoys to the falls, where a 10$ entry ticket, only 20 times more expensive than the local price, got me into the park with excellent views of the falls.
Comparing today’s experience with five year old memories from seeing the falls from the other side, it seems that, no, the spectacle isn’t too much prettier from the other side, if at all, but there is a bit more variety on the Zimbabwean side.
Just beyond the entrance of the park, a vendor is renting out raincoats. I wanted to experience the elements and continued unprotected, being soaked within minutes after leaving the raincoat rental behind.
Walking alongside the falls, along a path and bridge called the Knife Edge bridge, you come to a point directly on the corner of the falls and the gorge below, with a similar viewpoint clearly in sight on the other, Zimbabwean, side. I hung around for a few minutes, indulging in the free shower I received, while counting the number of tourists on the economically stricken side. I counted three and waved, but with little response.
It’s possible I actually waved to Christo and two Dutchees, who I was going to meet the next day in Kasane, Botswana, who, unbeknownst to me, had decided to visit the Zimbabwean side of the falls and were there around the same time I was.

Inside the park, I, three times, bumped into Noosha, an Iranian Java and Flash programmer, based on LA, and also staying at JollyBoys. Set to do some volunteer work in Cape Town for four weeks, she had attached a few weeks of trekking in southern Africa to get a feel for the continent.

Later, back at the hostel, the day turned out to have been very lucrative for some. An Australian backpacker, Andrew, had his wallet stolen at a nearby pub after having gone on a booze cruise. Though he retrieved the wallet from under a tree outside the pub, 230 dollars were missing. Kate, Noosha’s traveling companion, had her iPod shuffle stolen from the hostel. A German visitor, also staying at the hostel, claimed to have 1.8 million Kwatcha (around 350 dollars) stolen from his locker.
I was waiting around the reception area when the German, with restrained anger, tried to communicate his grief to the receptionist, who wouldn’t hear of it and deemed it impossible, not accepting any responsibility and claiming that this had never happened in all the years they were operating the hostel.
Somehow, with two other thefts occurring on the same day, this struck me as extremely unlikely.

Later, I spoke to an overlander in Kasane who, on the same day in Livingstone, had been mugged while walking around with two friends, having gotten a knife pushed against her throat.

Comparing Zimbabwe and Zambia

With few people actually seeing the falls from both sides, it’s a nice exercise to compare the two views from the two countries.

Me getting sprayed standing on Danger Point in Zimbabwe in 2004 (left) and looking at Danger Point from Zambia in 2009.

A lonley tree on top of the falls in 2004 (left) and in 2009.

The bridge to Zambia in 2004 (left) and to Zimbabwe in 2009.

Looking through the gorge from the Victoria Falls hotel in 2004 (left) and looking at the hotel from the gorge in 2009.

Livingstone, I presume

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The above now immortal words were spoken on November 10, 1871 by Sir Henry Morton Stanley upon meeting Livingstone. Though he was supposed to have said “Dr. Livingstone, I presume?” and it’s not at all certain whether these words were actually ever uttered. Also, they didn’t meet close to Victoria Falls, but near Lake Tanganyika in present-day Tanzania.
Livingstone, credited as being the first European to see Victoria Falls, or The Smoke That Thunders, had searched for the sources of the Nile, the Zambezi and the Congo rivers. Livingstone died in May 1873 in Zambia, but much further to the north.

Last time I was in Zambia, I wasn’t too impressed with the country and now I’m pretty sure that Zambia, at least this side of the country, is not much more than a tourist trap.
To get into the country will set you back 50 USD. A shuttle from the airport to town will set you back another 5 to 10. Going for an elephant ride is an abysmal 150 dollars. Rafting costs 130 dollars. Petting lion cubs costs more than 100 dollars. A booze cruise is 40 dollars. A ride to the Botswana border, 90 minutes, in a shared taxi is 5 dollars, where a ride to Lusaka, 450 kilometers is just over double that. Crappy internet costs 2.5 dollars per hour. The exchange rate for dollars at the place I’m staying is 12% lower than the official exchange rate while the exchange rate for euros is an unbelievable 30% less.
Then, in Livingstone, there are seemingly no ATMs connected to the Maestro or MasterCard network and only one place which can give a cash advance on a MasterCard, I’m sure at unreasonably high cost.

What ticks me off is not so much the unreasonably high prices, one can just choose to not give any tour operators the satisfaction of raking in the money, but the obvious fact that these 10,000s of dollars which get spent here daily do not end up with the local population in any meaningful way. The streets are still potholed, houses are crumbling, the shops are still dirty, quite empty, selling mediocre goods at best and, what’s more, very expensive.
Where petrol in South Africa is currently selling at 5.82 Rand per litre, about 0.60 USD, here, it’s just over 6200 Kwacha, just over 1.20 USD.

Still, business seems to be booming. The hostel, though it’s not the high season, is quite full. I was hoping to upgrade my dorm bed to a single room upon arrival, but at 30 USD, the price of a double room, however many occupants, compared to a bed in a four-bedded dorm, for 12 USD, I refrained. The more so because I’m not so sure I’ll have enough money on me in a few days to get out of the country.

The place I’m staying at is called JollyBoys. Service is as can be expected at a backpackers in the middle of Africa, while prices are not too reasonable. A beer is 2 USD, where most pubs in South Africa will sell beers between 1 and 1.50. A meal goes for 5 USD.
On the plus side, the atmosphere is enjoyable. Lots of relaxed seating areas, a pool and table tennis table a swimming pool with a fountain and even something which resembles a hot tub, but not hot. A pity it’s raining a lot.

On the plane, coming in from Jo’burg, the presence of lots of Dutchees as well as Hungarians took me by surprise. In the 90 minute queue to obtain a visa, I had ample time to acquaint myself with some of them. Turns out Nutricia is having something of a middle management meeting at Vic Falls to kick off the new year.
Now that is taking care of your employees.

DDR competition

Walking into my gym, Virgin Cresta, on a quiet afternoon, all six free internet terminals were occupied by jonkies. Every single one was playing around on Facebook.

A friend of Stevan’s was throwing a party at a bar in Troyville called Belavista, on Friday. On the fourth floor and roof of a small building, the views of the city were excellent, if a bit fresh, with the Vodacom tower blinking brightly in the background. Meanwhile, on the second floor of the same building, a heavily amplified unorthodox church service was telling its constituents to raise their arms, wave and pray loudly.

The next day, celebrating 22 years of hashing in Pretoria, Boeretannie and Hanging Dick had organized an extra long run with, thankfully, a beer stop which actually had some hooch. Afterwards, some braaiing at the Pionier Museum was quite a bit of fun and I, I suppose once more, realised how much I enjoy the hash; typically, one of the few places where you can be truly yourself without anyone judging you.

Before going to the hash, I returned to Menlyn Park for a bout of DDR. It’s been a while, so I wanted to start with a few easy songs to get back into the right frame of mind and body. It being rather busy, I asked if I could join a black kid who was going to play alone. He agreed. And started with a 9 footer. Followed by another 9 footer and followed by two 10 footers. The kid didn’t manage to finish the last 10 footer, but after managing the two 9 footers and the first 10 footer, I was too dead tired to even try and attempt the last track.
Indeed, it means there’s some new competition on the block. And not only this kid. Two Japanese chicks were happily bouncing away doing 8 and 9 footers, one of them even managing 8 footer doubles.

Building a shared African contact database

SAfAIDS, which stands for South African AIDS Information Dissemination Service, has been going strong since 1994. It’s a regional non-profit organisation based in Pretoria, South Africa. With support from local partners, SAfAIDS implements its programmes in Angola, Botswana, Lesotho, Malawi, Mozambique, Namibia, South Africa, Swaziland, Zambia and Zimbabwe. SAfAIDS’ core activities include capacity development for other HIV and AIDS Intermediary Organisations, information production, collection and dissemination, networking and building partnerships and leadership in promoting dialogue on cutting-edge issues related to HIV and AIDS.

Through the organization’s head office and through its partners, which operate as distribution hubs, SAfAIDS distributes a multitude of publications, both analogue and digital, to a wide range of constituents. Up till now, the hubs and the head office were using individual contact databases, if any at all, to keep track of their user base. At each office, these contacts were typically managed by one employee.

Obviously, the potential payoff for merging these contact databases and giving access to the data to a wider range of users is huge. To achieve this, Baba’s projects has been working on merging the data into an online shared database at SAfAIDS contacts . net.
Using an intuitive but strict rights management system, individual users can now update their own contact information.

Some of the benefits of the online system include:

+ Removal of duplicate information.
+ Easy identification of incorrect or corrupt data.
+ Individuals are able to update their own information.
+ Easy access to the data for a wider range of administrators.
+ Integrated publication distribution tracking.
+ Integrated mailing list distribution.
+ Integrated reporting.

Although the system is owned by SAfAIDS, it’s theoretically relatively easy to make the system self contained, turning it into a contact and mailing list manager for interested third parties.

Hashing in Northcliff

I was honored to set another hash in Jo’burg this weekend. The easy option would have been to set the run in Emmarentia, but I instead chose to start at Albert’s Farm. Now primarily a nice park, it’s also at the foot of Aasvoelkop, or Northcliff, which, at 1807 meters above sea level, is only one meter lower than the highest point in the city at Observatory ridge.
Needless to say, the views from the top are spectacular. But the run was destined to be a long one, ending up being some 7 kilometers, perhaps a bit more. And to make it even better, a few Rambos, well, myself, Yoda (a young girl) and Bubbles (her mom) went down the steep end of the cliff, just to prove we could do it. The guys chickened out.

To offset the pain which would undoubtedly follow from climbing this mountain, Whispering Thong had agreed to drive up the hill to provide the sweating crowd with a few enjoyable beers while enjoying the view. Directionally challenged, she however never made it even close to where the beer stop was supposed to be.

And then, while setting the run, I suffered the tail end of a huge passing storm, moving from the CBD towards Pretoria. Standing on top of the mountain, I could see the storm slowly rolling by, with rains so thick they were hiding most of Jo’burg from sight.

After the hash we had a decent curry at a nearby curry shop. The owner, South Indian, was the spitting image of a slightly clueless version of Data.

Sushi, hash, quiz and Gene

Finally, I managed to crawl my way up to Best of Asia, the sushi bar in Pineslopes which serves 3 for 2 on Tuesdays. Sadly, it was only Christo who joined me, Elvis having ‘other plans’ (his girlfriend is visiting) and Tim being sick at home with Linda as his private, pregnant, nurse.
The sushi, was exceptionally excellent. And I was welcomed by the owners upon my arrival. Clearly, I somehow made an impression.

A week later, Christo and I were joined by Razia and Christian. And on both occasions, the sushi aftermath was celebrated at Elvis’. That’s what friends are for.

But the first journey to Best of Asia was long. My car, a Brian, stalled on the way there. A friendly Afrikaner towed me to a nearby garage, where some magic temporarily fixed a carburetor/choke issue.

The first hash of the new year was a busy one: No less than 5 virgins, including a ballet dancer from Chili and a belly dancer from Zimbabwe (Rouzeh).
In fact, Rouzeh clearly enjoyed herself enough to join me the following week for a short hash weekend in the field, over at Buffelspoortdam, which was only slightly disturbed by the skies opening up.

Quizzes have also started again. Not yet at the Keg in Sunninghill, but yes in the Irish Club in Linden. We came in a decent second. Well, that is, I and a mom with her two kids and a guy which reminded me of Gene Hunt.

Also, I finally met Muhammad, a 22 year old Iranian who runs the Spar as well as the liquor store around the corner. Not bad, for someone who entered the country just two years ago.

And on one more small note, as I was shopping at Checkers in Cresta Mall, a huge rat scuttled from the bakery section to the salad section. No one seemed to notice as I watched it scrambling under the counter.

Helpdesk

In unrelated news, Mojo helpdesk have made their interface like Gmail’s and made it excellent in the process.

Craig Murray – The Catholic Orangemen of Togo and Other Conflicts I Have Known

Murray, who wrote the important Murder in Samarkand, on his stint as the British ambassador for Uzbekistan, highlighting the link with the international opium trade and British and US support for Uzbekistan’s dictatorial regime, has now followed up this book with a prequel, primarily on his time in Ghana.
Murray has had quite some issues with publishing his new book and, besides now managing to get the book listed on Amazon USA in Hardcover, scores of Murray supporters also offer the book as a PDF. Indeed, you can get it for free, right here, in three parts.

+ Part 1 (cover) mirror 1 mirror 2.
+ Part 2 (introduction) mirror 1 mirror 2.
+ Part 3 (book) mirror 1 mirror 2.

I couldn’t find the book as important as Murder in Samarkand, but it’s an entertaining read, focussing on Murray’s time, mostly working as the British High Commissioner to Ghana, roughly from 1998 to 2001, which was publicly characterized by the Arms to Africa affair.

Part of the critique on Murray’s earlier book was the intertwining of spilling political beans with spilling private beans, mostly involving Murray’s sexual escapades. Possibly to poke fun at his critics, it’s his relationship issues he starts the first few paragraphs of this book with.

The book works for Murray’s candid approach both to himself and his experiences. Clearly, what he went through both in Ghana and, more importantly, Uzbekistan, and the emotional breakdown which followed, resulted in him getting to know himself to the fullest. And The Catholic Orangemen…, as a biography or memoir works because Murray is not full of himself. He’s aware of this, touching upon it in the preface, where he points out that contrary to typical biographies, Murder in Samarkand showed the author, warts and all, as opposed to presenting a near perfect image of himself, which autobiographies and memoirs often end up doing.

As far as revelations go, this book’s not nearly as impressive as its predecessor. It’s the small details which make it juicy. Descriptions of warlords, national leaders, politics behind politics and whatnot.
But also, Murray has clearly become a better writer since his previous book, using his tongue-in-cheek style with gusto.

In one example of a minor revelation, Murray makes the point that the Ghanaian Kwameh Nkrumah, post-colonial Africa’s first independent head of state, was also post-colonial Africa’s first dictator and the creator of the model which started the long series of anti-democratic rule with Nkrumah being, in many ways, the model for Mugabe, who both studied in Ghana and met his first wife there.
Murray shows that, besides the West’s dumping of subsidized goods and hurting the local economies, Africans have also destroyed their regional trade for the protection of corrupt private interests. With his interest and knowledge of Ghana, he goes into a bit more detail on J.J. Rawlings, long time dictator and elected president of Ghana (but not since 2000, shortly before I arrived in the country).

Joy FM makes a brief appearance in relation to the 2000 Ghana elections and Murray mentions the (then?) director, Sam Attah Mensah, whom I briefly met when I spent time working at Joy FM in early 2001.
The chapter on the Ghanaian elections of 2000 I found very intriguing, with some very interesting but little reported on details on how the peaceful handover of power to the opposition really happened and nearly wasn’t very peaceful at all.
Champs bar gets another mentioning, which is where we used to play weekly trivia quizzes.

The version of the book I read is a prerelease. This means that there’s still a few small things in it which need to be edited out, but nothing major.
It’s amazing that Tim Spicer has been able to block the publication of the book. He’s by no means a major player in the book and Murray doesn’t seem to reveal anything out of the ordinary about him shows that Spicer most likely violated UN regulations, by Spicer having had the intent to supply weapons to the conflict in Sierra Leone. With Spicer heading Sandline, in cahoots with Executive Outcomes, both mercenary firms not totally unlike Blackwater, this isn’t too surprising, but could make Spicer eligible for prosecution for breaking a UN embargo.

A supposedly Iranian girl, Adrienne Ramainian also makes an appearance and Murray makes clear she’s extremely beautiful. The Daily Mail published an excerpt of the book with a photo of Murray and a very good looking girl which, in a copied excerpt still carries what I suspect is the original caption, identifying the girl as Ramainian. As Google has no results for the girl’s name but these two pages (and, give it a day, this very page), I also suspect that the name Murray gives the girl is not her real name. And, in fact, judging from the photo, I would not be surprised if she’s actually Indian.

It’s a very enjoyable book, easy and entertaining to read. Not as shocking or revealing as Murder in Samarkand, but more appealing. More personal, if you will. It’s a bit like reading a high profile blog without the pretensions but with the juicy details.

Fungibility

Remarking on most international donors’ relatively new policy of supporting budgets, not projects, Murray points out the administrative inability of African middle management, the more corrupted African governments (that is, more corrupted than Western governments) and the mediocre monitoring by the donors, as reasons for this change of funding being a failure. Money pumped in by donors for a particular line item on the budget means that money originally allocated for that line item can now be pocketed by the high level administrators. Fungibility.

The only way around this, I suppose, is to have donors manage whole areas of developing countries and avoid the intermingling of funds, responsibilities and objectives. However, obviously, creating a shadow state opens up a whole different can of worms.

Would you like some carnival with your new year?

Apparently in its fifth year, the last day of the old year saw the now traditional street carnival in downtown Johannesburg. Expecting something akin to Asakusa Samba which I enjoyed earlier this year in Japan, I was full of expectation.

As with many South African events, promotion was abysmal. This meant it was hard to get an idea of the route the parade would follow. However, through interpolation and my superb (ahem) knowledge of Jo’burg, I figured that if I’d park my car at the Civic theater, I’d be able to walk and enjoy the parade.
Though this was true and I arrived just in time to see the beginning of the show pass by on my little bit of De Korte street, there were practically no other spectators. Also, the parade was over in a mere 15 minutes. A long cry from the hours I spent watching the parade in Tokyo.

In the evening, Rouzeh and I went to a party thrown by hasher After Blast in Pretoria. The food, potluck style, was more than excellent, and so was the whiskey. Just before 12, an enormous storm hit the ridge on which we were partying, which meant there wasn’t any fireworks for miles around.

Animals and web hosting

On Friday, after having a drink at the next door restaurant Picola, Stevan and I were invited over to the house of one of Stevan’s friends. All well and good, until, when we got there, it was obvious she had had quite a few drinks too many. We were forced to sing and dance to old ABBA tunes played through a TV set.

The day after, Rouzeh and I drove over to Hartbeespoortdam to visit the Aquarium. Actually more of a bird sanctuary, the aquariums with all sorts of fish are the least interesting. We had to share the 3pm show with all other visitors. That is, none.
The start of the show was at a compound with two seals. One, Polly, had had an operation to remove a dead fetus from her womb and was mostly basking on the rocks, the other, Pam, was nearly blind and demanding fish as early as 30 minutes before the show started. Pam did some tricks for us, including rescuing a baby doll and pushing a small bicycle.
After the seals, the resident pelican was reluctant to come out for a stroll and some fish. This was followed by the feeding of three South African penguins. Two with a broken arm and the third with an arm missing. Then, a baby alligator tried to bite my finger while our every move was followed by a couple of turtles, constantly sticking their beady eyes out above the water of their pond.

Afterwards, it was another evening of board games. Monopoly wasn’t too much of a success and we ended up playing Wii sports.

Quizing, movies and more games

Before going to a free showing of The Day the Earth Stood Still at Montecasino on Thursday, I did my workout at Virgin Fourways. There, I ran into personal trainer Steven who convinced me to join in the 30 minute ab attack. It’s listed on the schedule with three sweat drops next to it, which indicates it’s pretty tough.
It was. I nearly died. Well. I felt my abs for days afterwards.

Afterwards, first splurging on nuts, milk, fish and a health bar, all to get the proteins flowing again, I stumbled over to the casino where, on the main square, Kurt Darren was singing Christmas carols for charity. It was packed.

Arriving at the cinema, a large Futurama display brightened up my day.

Grumble

I’m using MacOSaiX to create a few nice, you’ve guessed it, mosaics. My computer was churning away the numbers for three days when the 3G modem decided it was time to crash and reboot the system. All work lost. Who’s allowing me to kill them? I’ll settle for significant mutilation.
It also seems that this fubar somehow ate into my data usage. And at almost 200 Rand (20 USD) per gig, that’s less than funny.

Meanwhile, I seem to have maxed out my credit card. Out of the three bank cards I have with me, a total of none is currently working.

Risky

On Saturday, it was another night of Risk. After the hash, this time close to the Kyalami race track, with a christmas theme and very spicy vodka, I drove over to Elvis to butt heads over two games. We finished just after it had started to get light. This time, though, not even half a bottle of whisky was internalized.
We started a discussion on what, statistically, would be the best attack and defend strategy and, in the end, we couldn’t agree. I almost wrote a small program to calculate the stats using a brute force method but, not surprisingly, this has already been done. With three attack dice against two defender dice, the attacker has a very slight advance, to my surprise. It’s about 7/13 to 6/13, just above half.

One more quiz

Turns out, there’s also a very good quiz right next door. Three blocks away, the Irish pub in Linden does a bi-weekly quiz which is very enjoyable. Not a chain, more like a local, with cheap fish and chips at 28 Rand and free snacks. We messed up the sports round but still came in 5th. Downside… no new quiz here until January 14th. Which, at least, is one week before the quiz at the Keg and Filly starts up again.

Travel and travel websites

With the recent death/hibernation of Travelhog.net, where all working travelogues were moved to oneview, I haven’t stopped being interested in travel nor travel websites.

Recently, a friend alerted me to the Dutch site vakantiegangers.nl, which is a slick looking travel-centered social networking website, where you can log your travels, add photos, also from photo sharing websites, and share trips with other members traveling with you. So, in effect, vakantiegangers.nl is something of a collaborative travelogue platform. This has potential though I think the major pitfall for this platform will be the challenge in finding the right target audience.
Though the interface is pretty, very web 2.0, usage is a bit more complex than for most social networks, while many of those that are truly interested in logging their travel stories are probably already doing that on other platforms, needing a good incentive to actually move over to this new platform, however slick.

Another new platform, this one publicly launched only two months ago, is GeckoGo, which seemingly goes for ‘the minimal look’, a bit comparable to Flickr (and, yes, I know, I just haven’t shot any photos in the last 5 weeks!), but not really getting it right. There’s, visually, clearly still some tweaking to be done.
However, one interesting feature is the interactive map on the homepage which shows you the best countries to visit based on the type of holiday you’re looking for and the month of the year you want to travel. Not very complex to build, sure, but quirky and, more importantly, useful. At least for the armchair adventurist.

As you might know, I like mapping applications (and I’m close to building a new one for Johannesburg), so it’s nice to see that GeckoGo uses maps on other pages as well. For example, if you take a look at the Thailand page, a small Google map displays user contributed attractions in a reasonably accessible way. Downside, though, is that it only shows five locations at a time. I would want to see all hotspots shown on the map concurrently. Likewise, Chiang Mai has no less than 50 attractions listed, but spread over 10 pages. It would be much more practical if I would be able to see all locations on one map, without having to page through them.
Lots of user contributed photos too, which is nice, but what seems to be lacking is someone actually checking them for quality. And what, really, is the advantage for users of submitting photos to a travel site over, say, Flickr? Wouldn’t it make more sense to match the GeckoGo user’s account with their Flickr account and then matching on, say, tags?

But, I’m impressed with the amount of information available. At least for Chiang Mai. Compare GeckoGo’s Chiang Mai page with the comparable page on WikiTravel. Also not bad, and the latter has the lovely clean look copied from Wikipedia, but the user oriented GeckoGo does have a potential edge over WikiTravel. Though, as said earlier, they should revisit the way they present their information.
Also, they seem to make a point of not being WikiTravel. One of the benefits of themselves which they mention is that the user can “Get REAL travel info, not encyclopaedia entries”.

Above, I mentioned vakantiegangers.nl. Their USP is the ability for their users to keep track of their trips. This is one thing lacking from GeckoGo. You can select the countries you’ve been to, a gimmicky thing which has been available on the web for years, but also without real value.
GeckoGo does tie your location to other users going there in the near future. It’s something which other travel websites have been doing for a while, but still a nice bit of functionality. Though I don’t think I would initiate contact with someone coming to the city I’m in, unless I was traveling myself perhaps. What might be better is if I could see who’s coming to my neck of the woods and resides in my extended network. This would be a form of implicit quality control of these individuals and would lower the barrier for contacting them.
Not surprisingly, GeckoGo allows you to import contacts through your email accounts. Out of the 3110 contacts in my gmail account, a sum total of zero were already on GeckoGo. And that’s pretty much where the interaction with other websites ends. I would have liked Flickr integration, to name one. But why not throw in Twitter (or, say, FriendFeed) integration as well? Then, the only way to blog about your travels and have them show up on GeckoGo is to blog directly on GeckoGo. What if I’m already blogging somewhere else? I’m not going to then blog in two locations. Why can’t I simply show my existing blog posts from elsewhere with my GeckoGo profile? Or link to my blog posts on particular locations?

Still, the difference in objective and setup between GeckoGo and vakantiegangers or WikiTravel is obvious. GeckoGo wants to create a user-driven global tourist guide, like, for example, the Italy Travel Guide, or the Thailand one mentioned above. Not so much with neutral information, like WikiTravel, but with personal opinions.
This is clever as the personal aspect has a certain value more objective information doesn’t have. However, it can be only a matter of time, assuming GeckoGo gains a significant user base, before spammers and advertisers will infiltrate the ranks and start polluting the data. And I suspect this is already happening. Take a look at the comments for the entry for the Galleria degli Uffizi in Florence. The later comments are much shorter.
Though it seems GeckoGo also sorts comments and reviews by length, not by date. This promotion of verbosity I have not seen before and is intriguing. Obviously, this won’t really work with comments, as you immediately lose the threading.

That GeckoGo’s presentation still leaves something to be desired can also be seen in how it displays accommodation options for the area you’re checking out. Although booking is possible through a special tab in the top level menu, it’s not possible to book accommodation directly from their respective pages when actually looking at the details of a hostel or guest house. This means that if you find a hotel to your liking, you have to note down the name and location, and then hope it will come up when you go through the booking process.
The hotel search engine they use, by the way, is courtesy of hotelscombined.com, which is also still available on Travelhog.net. It’s an excellent service for it checks multiple booking engines at the same time, able to offer each hotel at the cheapest rate.

GeckoGo also mimics Yahoo answers, focusing on travel questions. Interesting and practical, but with now only some 1500 questions in the list, this will need some time to become truly useful.

You can currently win a trip to Indochina if you sign up with GeckoGo, though I’m not sure if this covers more than Vietnam and Thailand.

Beauty and the Beast

I’ve never been too much drawn to this production, either the stage show or the film. It has always struck me as having a rather simple plot.

Watching The Beast in Montecasino’s Teatro, I found the story rather simple and the songs not overly memorable, though the production value, particularly shown in the quality of the costumes, was impressive.
The beast, played by Anton Luitingh, though one of the two main characters, struggles with his musical performances, only really performing well in his last outing. Luitingh played Pontius Pilate in Jesus Christ Superstar. It’s primarily Gaston, played by Jonathan Roxmouth and Mrs Potts, Anna Marie Clulow, who steal the show with their vocal powers. Talia Kodesh does an excellent performance as the hot chick Belle. She previously was Scaramouche on We Will Rock You.

The first published version of this classic fairy tale dates from 1740, but is likely to be much older. However, the original story, which can be found at Wikipedia differs significantly from the theatre show and is, in fact, more interesting.
The 1991 Disney version was actually nominated for Best Picture and it’s this version which was adapted for the theatre.

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