Going further south in Chile, I'm heading to the island of Chiloë, where UNESCO churches and penguins are the main attractions. The bus company crossing the waters has its own ferries to ship its busses across.
The penguins, strangely, retreat south for the winter, leaving the island's multiple excellent interpretations of surf 'n' turf as one of the draws of the area.
There are a lot of burned out buildings in Ancud. Perhaps not so surprising as they are all made of wood and use wood stoves to heat them up.