Not Issyk-Kol

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World » Kyrgyzstan » Bishkek » In the mountains south of Bishkek

Central Asia is more conveniently visited in summer. Then, visiting remote locations and unexpectedly having to stay the night doesn’t include the risk of freezing to death.

Two places I had wanted to visit on this trip, in Kyrgyzstan, were Osh and lake Issyk-Kol. Osh is in the Ferghana valley, where three of the Stans meet, as if in a whirlpool. The backdrop of Osh, itself the oldest city in Kyrgyzstan, estimated at over 3000 years old, is Sulayman Mountain, a World Heritage Site. Flights from Bishkek can be very cheap, while a bus takes perhaps ten hours to get there.

Issyk-Kol, the second largest salt water lake on the world, after the Caspian Sea, is only a few hours away from Bishkek. But, this requires traveling through a high pass. I wanted to visit the lake on Sunday and leave Kyrgyzstan on Monday. But, significant snowfall the morning before, and the prediction of a light thaw on the day itself meant the roads could be more than tricky and the pass perhaps closed.
I considered pressing my luck, but, during a night of drinking with a bunch of Hashers, I was convinced to not take the chance and, take a few of the Hashers up on the offer to go for a hike in the nearby mountain range to the south of the city.

The hike was good, occasionally wading through a foot of snow, but the day was made at the end of our hike; we ran into a hunting party which offered us cherry vodka, cheese and some target practice with their hunting rifles, which turned out to be very loud.
I shared some cigars and we were shown the results of their efforts, three wild boar and an ibex.

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