Array ( [total] => 8 [pageSize] => 24 [page] => 0 [results] => Array ( [864] => Array ( [iID] => 864 [tTitle] => Growth and decay [tSlug] => growth-and-decay [iTime] => 1045090800 [iUpdate] => 1045090800 [tDescription] => After the abolition of slavery and the loss of cheap labor, the plantations of Surinam soon became unattractive for exploitation. For a while, it was tried with people from China, India and Java, but to no effect. The cost was simply too high. Taking the lead from the Portuguese, who brought the slave trade to Brazil, the English imported slaves into Suriname from the middle of the 17th century. The Africans survived the abominable conditions much better then the 'red slaves', the local indians, did. With this source of cheap labor, the sides of the Suriname river were cultivated. It would take another couple of years before the coast was also cultivated, due to the higher demand on labor by the clay-dominated ground. When the Zeeuwen, from the southern coastal region of the Netherlands, won Suriname from the English in 1667, the English took their slaves with them to Tobago. It was the new Dutch governor who introduced polders (low lying ground, drained by milling stations), dikes and canals and started the exploitation of the rich coastal area. Running a plantation was expensive and often very difficult and riddled with setbacks. Many of the plantation names remember this: Sorrow and hope, Good hope, Jacob's struggle, etc. After a crash on the Amsterdam stock market in 1773, many plantation owners left for Holland, leaving their plantation in the hands of an overseer. More often than not, this overseer tried to maximize his short term profit by over-exploiting the soil and labor. As a result, in 1863, when slavery was abolished, already half of the plantations were no longer in use. The new immigrants from Java, India and China who were paid contract workers couldn't change the tide. Although all were offered a trip back to their home country after completion of their contract, only few did go back. They came to Suriname mostly because their situation back home was bleak in the first place. The result was a multicultural Suriname. Only few of the plantations are still (partially) working. Still, these are struggling to stay afloat. On the sites of the Peperpot and Marienburg plantations, people still do some work, although only a part of the Peperpot plantation is still slightly in use. [iCategory] => 12 [tURL] => [iViews] => 3606 [iClicks] => 0 [iRating] => 0 [iVote] => 0 [iVoters] => 0 [iRedirect] => 0 [tISBN] => [iLocation] => 877 [iOldID] => 1238 [tCover] => [iAccess] => 1461976199 [iHot] => 0 [tTemplateName] => default [iHideMap] => 0 [iForSale] => 0 [iImages] => 6 [iFullImage] => 0 [fLatitude] => 5.82628 [fLongitude] => -55.1517 [tLocation] => Onafhankelijkheidsplein [iPrimaryCategoryFeatured] => 0 [tCategory] => Blog [iCategoryFeatured] => 0 [iPrimaryCategory] => 12 [categories] => Array ( [12] => Array ( [iID] => 12 [tName] => Blog [tSlug] => blog [tDescription] => Find my upcoming travel plans over at Dopplr and a listing of major (and some minor) travelogues over on the travelogues section. [iOrder] => 1 [iActive] => 1 [tType] => article [tTemplateName] => default [iFeatured] => 0 [iPrimary] => 1 ) ) [flickrTag] => 20030213 ) [857] => Array ( [iID] => 857 [tTitle] => Graves [tSlug] => graves [iTime] => 1044486000 [iUpdate] => 1044486000 [tDescription] => Some people, strangely, think, after seeing my pictures, that I have some obscure fascination with cemeteries. This is correct. I think this started when I was living in Hungary. The main cemetery there has some very impressive monuments and mausoleums. Since seeing those, whenever I get the chance, I can't resist to check out a local cemetery. Oranjetuin Paramaribo has a number of cemeteries, but the most interesting one is Oranjetuin. Dating from the middle of the 18th century, it was filled up quite a while ago. Now and then, the Dutch government invests some money for restoring the area but all that ever happens is some removal of weeds. Year after year, the site decays a little more. Synagogue Around Paramaribo's big synagogue a lot of large stone slabs are neatly ordered. Grave stones from an old cemetery that had to make room for modernization. One grave As almost everywhere else, it is forbidden to use your own backyard as a cemetery. However, if you know the right people, you can get everything done in this country so, occasionally, you'll come across a neighbor who's buried his grandfather in his own garden. St Laurent du Maroni St Laurent's cemetery, in French Guyana, is a large collection of mostly wooden crosses. The site itself is quite big, but most of the area is not used, grass as tall as I am, was covering most of the area, the occasional tilted cross breaking the green waves. Iracoubo Since French Guyana has been French for quite a while, people from this country fought in both world wars. And since the French are proud of their war history, most towns in French Guyana have a monument to the fallen heroes. [iCategory] => 12 [tURL] => [iViews] => 5532 [iClicks] => 0 [iRating] => 0 [iVote] => 0 [iVoters] => 0 [iRedirect] => 0 [tISBN] => [iLocation] => 883 [iOldID] => 1231 [tCover] => [iAccess] => 1461441523 [iHot] => 0 [tTemplateName] => default [iHideMap] => 0 [iForSale] => 0 [iImages] => 0 [iFullImage] => 0 [fLatitude] => 5.83111 [fLongitude] => -55.1607 [tLocation] => Oranjetuin [iPrimaryCategoryFeatured] => 0 [tCategory] => Blog [iCategoryFeatured] => 0 [iPrimaryCategory] => 12 [categories] => Array ( [12] => Array ( [iID] => 12 [tName] => Blog [tSlug] => blog [tDescription] => Find my upcoming travel plans over at Dopplr and a listing of major (and some minor) travelogues over on the travelogues section. [iOrder] => 1 [iActive] => 1 [tType] => article [tTemplateName] => default [iFeatured] => 0 [iPrimary] => 1 ) ) [flickrTag] => 20030206 ) [854] => Array ( [iID] => 854 [tTitle] => Prayer houses out of town [tSlug] => prayer-houses-out-of-town [iTime] => 1044226800 [iUpdate] => 1044226800 [tDescription] => You can only miss the many prayer houses out of town if you go out with your eyes closed. Some of the more well disposed Hindu families even have small temples built on their own grounds, as did Lila's (see later) parents in Commewijne. Something you can recognize Hindi households by is the many flags in one corner of their yard. After a service is held in their homes, a flag is erected in their yard where the length of the pole refers to the importance of the god that was honored. Close to 'Op weg naar zee', where we saw the cremation of three Hindus, there's also a pilgrimage site. Similar to what happens in the Ganges once a year, Hindus come here to cleanse themselves. A large statue of Hanuman, resembling an ice hockey player, guards the entrance. [iCategory] => 12 [tURL] => [iViews] => 2780 [iClicks] => 0 [iRating] => 0 [iVote] => 0 [iVoters] => 0 [iRedirect] => 0 [tISBN] => [iLocation] => 881 [iOldID] => 1228 [tCover] => [iAccess] => 1462117747 [iHot] => 0 [tTemplateName] => default [iHideMap] => 0 [iForSale] => 0 [iImages] => 2 [iFullImage] => 0 [fLatitude] => 5.89831 [fLongitude] => -55.1799 [tLocation] => Op weg naar zee [iPrimaryCategoryFeatured] => 0 [tCategory] => Blog [iCategoryFeatured] => 0 [iPrimaryCategory] => 12 [categories] => Array ( [12] => Array ( [iID] => 12 [tName] => Blog [tSlug] => blog [tDescription] => Find my upcoming travel plans over at Dopplr and a listing of major (and some minor) travelogues over on the travelogues section. [iOrder] => 1 [iActive] => 1 [tType] => article [tTemplateName] => default [iFeatured] => 0 [iPrimary] => 1 ) ) [flickrTag] => 20030203 ) [853] => Array ( [iID] => 853 [tTitle] => Houses of God [tSlug] => houses-of-god [iTime] => 1044140400 [iUpdate] => 1044140400 [tDescription] => Suriname is often credited as being a true multicultural society. This is only partially correct. Although many different cultures do live intertwined, it's just that, they're living close together, but not necessarily integrated. It is amazing to see so many churches, mosques and temples in such a small country. In downtown Paramaribo a large synagogue stands right next to an even larger mosque, both a stone's throw away from South America's biggest wooden cathedral. It's possible to get a tour of the St. Peter and Paul cathedral but the building itself is decaying fast since it's no longer in use. Just a bit further away, there's a small replica of the same cathedral which is still in good shape.
There is a second large synagogue in Paramaribo, but it's rented out as an internet cafe. Although the synagogue is normally closed to the public, it's possible to get a tour of the facilities when reserved in advance. When we arrived, one was just about to start and we joined the three older women that were there. One of them was an old acquaintance of Betsy and another, who lived in the Netherlands, was searching for the roots of her grandparents. Through old pictures, neighbours and children of old friends of the family, piece by piece she was closing in on the picture that was her grandparents. She had come to the synagogue since her grandfather was baptised a Jew, although that was in a synagogue that now no longer exists. We met the women again later on, when we were enjoying a beer at 't Vat, a tourist bar in the tourist district. They came up to us and talked about their experiences. In doing so, one of them stepped, accidentally, on a large cockroach, already on his back fighting to survive. Sadly, when the lady walked away, so did the cockroach. Our guide of the synagogue, Jules, was an old neighbour of Betsy's. He himself now runs the only McDonalds in Suriname, his father, who was also there, owns the Fernandes factories, where they produce soft drinks, breads and more. When Jules walked in, he looked at my girlfriend, "And that's Betsy!". Small world. The floor of the synagogue is covered with sand, a custom that was copied after the first (also wooden) synagogue, in Jodensavanna was abandoned. Since Jews aren't allowed to work on the Sabbat, a falling candle might cause quite a bit of havoc and destruction since, on the Sabbat, as a Jew, you're not allowed to extinguish it. There's one other synagogue in the world where the floor is covered with sand. It's in Curacao and it was set up by Jews coming from Suriname. After the tour, we talked with one of the workmen at the synagogue. He turned out to be an uncle of Daphne, an old friend of Betsy. That Friday, her little brother was going to celebrate his birthday big time in one of the buildings on the grounds of the synagogue. We had no choice but to go. The old man also pointed us to a nearby shop, run by an older brother of Daphne. My girlfriend had only stuck her head through the doorway when he said "Betsy!?". [iCategory] => 12 [tURL] => [iViews] => 3011 [iClicks] => 0 [iRating] => 0 [iVote] => 0 [iVoters] => 0 [iRedirect] => 0 [tISBN] => [iLocation] => 880 [iOldID] => 1227 [tCover] => [iAccess] => 1462238164 [iHot] => 0 [tTemplateName] => default [iHideMap] => 0 [iForSale] => 0 [iImages] => 7 [iFullImage] => 0 [fLatitude] => 5.82851 [fLongitude] => -55.1593 [tLocation] => Synagogue [iPrimaryCategoryFeatured] => 0 [tCategory] => Blog [iCategoryFeatured] => 0 [iPrimaryCategory] => 12 [categories] => Array ( [12] => Array ( [iID] => 12 [tName] => Blog [tSlug] => blog [tDescription] => Find my upcoming travel plans over at Dopplr and a listing of major (and some minor) travelogues over on the travelogues section. [iOrder] => 1 [iActive] => 1 [tType] => article [tTemplateName] => default [iFeatured] => 0 [iPrimary] => 1 ) ) [flickrTag] => 20030202 ) [852] => Array ( [iID] => 852 [tTitle] => Other places in Paramaribo [tSlug] => other-places-in-paramaribo [iTime] => 1044054000 [iUpdate] => 1044054000 [tDescription] => There are many more places in town worth visiting. One of them is Spanhoek, near the headquarters of Telesur, the national phone company. Amidst a large dry fountain, the 'Statenmonument' is accompanied by a glockenspiel that broke down shortly after its donation by the Dutch government in 1975. 

Close to Spanhoek, at the Kerkplein, the terrace of Orlando's is a great place to while away the hours on a relaxed Saturday afternoon or Sunday, when everyone has moved to their 'boitis', their outhouses. The middle of the square is occupied by the Centre Church with on one side a statue of Simon Bolivar and on the other a monument in honor of Nicolaas Helstone, a Surinamese musician of some influence. 
Orlando's is a great place to experience the diversity of the Surinamese people. Not only Peacecorps volunteers, tourists, Suralco workers and gold diggers stop by, the four people that work at Orlando's are a Creole man, a black girl, a Lebanese woman and a Javanese man. Close by Orlando's, the Keizerstraat is home to a large synagoge and a very large mosque. Just around the corner, you can find the rundown wooden cathedral of St. Peter and Paul, which still is the largest wooden cathedral in South America. 

Our visit to Suriname coincided with the Chinese new year. Since most of the casino's are run by Chinese, we needed to know which places to go to at what time. After talking to the owner of a Chinese supermarket, we found out where to go on Friday night, Saturday night and Sunday afternoon. Free food, drinks, pagara's (fireworks), dancing snakes and more, a whole weekend long. [iCategory] => 12 [tURL] => [iViews] => 4888 [iClicks] => 0 [iRating] => 0 [iVote] => 0 [iVoters] => 0 [iRedirect] => 0 [tISBN] => [iLocation] => 877 [iOldID] => 1226 [tCover] => [iAccess] => 1461801542 [iHot] => 0 [tTemplateName] => default [iHideMap] => 0 [iForSale] => 0 [iImages] => 14 [iFullImage] => 0 [fLatitude] => 5.82628 [fLongitude] => -55.1517 [tLocation] => Onafhankelijkheidsplein [iPrimaryCategoryFeatured] => 0 [tCategory] => Blog [iCategoryFeatured] => 0 [iPrimaryCategory] => 12 [categories] => Array ( [12] => Array ( [iID] => 12 [tName] => Blog [tSlug] => blog [tDescription] => Find my upcoming travel plans over at Dopplr and a listing of major (and some minor) travelogues over on the travelogues section. [iOrder] => 1 [iActive] => 1 [tType] => article [tTemplateName] => default [iFeatured] => 0 [iPrimary] => 1 ) ) [flickrTag] => 20030201 ) [851] => Array ( [iID] => 851 [tTitle] => The Waterkant [tSlug] => the-waterkant [iTime] => 1043967600 [iUpdate] => 1043967600 [tDescription] => The Waterkant (waterfront) is where locals hang out to be seen. The boulevard has many small eateries and bars which have been recently renovated by the, some say corrupt, bank director Henck Goedschalk. A number of buildings on the waterfront are worth seeing. Among them the Corner House, the central bank, the ministry of Social Affairs and the Waaggebouw. The balcony of the Waaggebouw was used by Anton de Kom to deliver his speeches to the masses in the 30s of the previous century. If you look out across the river, you can see the Goslar in the middle of the stream. The former German vessel was sunken by its crew near the beginning of the second world war, mainly to block the entrance of the river. Behind the Waaggebouw there's the dock of the SMS, the Surinamese Shipping Company, from where it's possibly to take boat rides on the Suriname river. On the other side of the road from the Waaggebouw, the former police offices was completely shot to pieces in 1982, by Bouterse's forces. Just a little up the road there's the central market, the biggest covered market in the Caribbean, where you can buy anything you might need, from clothes, through second hand wigs to spices. Close to the market, three slaves are remembered with a small monument. The three, Codjo, Mentor and Present, were burned alive after being suspected of lighting the city fire of 1932. Up to a few years ago, when money was still exchanged on the black market, the central market was the right place to change your cash and from every corner you could hear voices whispering at you 'wisselewissel' (changechange). Nowadays, things are slightly more professional where almost every street corner is fitted with a drive through cambio. [iCategory] => 12 [tURL] => [iViews] => 3408 [iClicks] => 0 [iRating] => 0 [iVote] => 0 [iVoters] => 0 [iRedirect] => 0 [tISBN] => [iLocation] => 879 [iOldID] => 1225 [tCover] => [iAccess] => 1462129776 [iHot] => 0 [tTemplateName] => default [iHideMap] => 0 [iForSale] => 0 [iImages] => 10 [iFullImage] => 0 [fLatitude] => 5.825 [fLongitude] => -55.1534 [tLocation] => Waterkant [iPrimaryCategoryFeatured] => 0 [tCategory] => Blog [iCategoryFeatured] => 0 [iPrimaryCategory] => 12 [categories] => Array ( [12] => Array ( [iID] => 12 [tName] => Blog [tSlug] => blog [tDescription] => Find my upcoming travel plans over at Dopplr and a listing of major (and some minor) travelogues over on the travelogues section. [iOrder] => 1 [iActive] => 1 [tType] => article [tTemplateName] => default [iFeatured] => 0 [iPrimary] => 1 ) ) [flickrTag] => 20030131 ) [850] => Array ( [iID] => 850 [tTitle] => Fort Zeelandia [tSlug] => fort-zeelandia [iTime] => 1043881200 [iUpdate] => 1043881200 [tDescription] => Paramaribo probably wouldn't have existed if not for Fort Zeelandia. Originally built by the English, it was extended with five bastions by the Dutch in 1667. When in 1712 the French conquered some of the plantations downstream, it was decided to build a new defensive fortress closer to the sea. Fort Amsterdam took over as the main defense fortress in Suriname and Fort Zeelandia became more of a training ground for soldiers. Between 1967 and 1982 the fortress served as the national museum but in 1982 the army of Bouterse took over the building as its headquarters. The infamous December killings happened at Fort Zeelandia. Using some more of the Dutch government's money, in 1995 the fortress was revamped and reverted to its original style and now more than ever breaths a 17th century Dutch atmosphere. Close to the fort you can find the Nola Hatterman institute, and a statue of a former queen of the Netherlands, Wilhelmina, which stood on the Onafhankelijkheidsplein until 1975. [iCategory] => 12 [tURL] => [iViews] => 3581 [iClicks] => 0 [iRating] => 0 [iVote] => 0 [iVoters] => 0 [iRedirect] => 0 [tISBN] => [iLocation] => 878 [iOldID] => 1224 [tCover] => [iAccess] => 1462173849 [iHot] => 0 [tTemplateName] => default [iHideMap] => 0 [iForSale] => 0 [iImages] => 6 [iFullImage] => 0 [fLatitude] => 5.82523 [fLongitude] => -55.1499 [tLocation] => Fort Zeelandia [iPrimaryCategoryFeatured] => 0 [tCategory] => Blog [iCategoryFeatured] => 0 [iPrimaryCategory] => 12 [categories] => Array ( [12] => Array ( [iID] => 12 [tName] => Blog [tSlug] => blog [tDescription] => Find my upcoming travel plans over at Dopplr and a listing of major (and some minor) travelogues over on the travelogues section. [iOrder] => 1 [iActive] => 1 [tType] => article [tTemplateName] => default [iFeatured] => 0 [iPrimary] => 1 ) ) [flickrTag] => 20030130 ) [849] => Array ( [iID] => 849 [tTitle] => Onafhankelijkheidsplein in Paramaribo [tSlug] => onafhankelijkheidsplein-in-paramaribo [iTime] => 1043794800 [iUpdate] => 1043794800 [tDescription] => 'Onafhankelijkheidsplein' (independence square) used to be called 'Oranjeplein' (orange square) until independence, but that name soon fell in disuse after 1975. In a distant past, the grassy field was used as a practice area for the soldiers stationed in Fort Zeelandia but nowadays the field is mostly used for cultural events and, every Sunday, by men (they're only men) fighting for the prize that comes with the title of best singing bird. Often, you can see men walking around town with a small cage holding a singing bird. In the west, people take their dogs out for a walk. Here, they take their bird for a walk. On the west side of the square, there's a statue of the first Surinamese president of mixed descent, Johan Adolf Pengel. The same who gave his name to the airport at Zanderij. Directly behind the statue you can find the ministry of finance, which was originally planned to be city hall. The ministry is a mixture of two building styles: colonial and old Dutch. The architect never envisioned a tower on top of the building but he was persuaded by the wife of the then governor who was convinced a city hall needed a tower, just like in her home town of Groningen. Right next to the finance ministry, there's the ministry of internal affairs. The house dates from the second half of the 18th century and its most notorious resident was Susanna Duplessis, wife to a slave owner. On a boat ride, she once silenced the baby of one of her slaves by holding it underwater for minutes on end because she couldn't stand the crying and it's mother couldn't shut it up.
Later, her husband fancied one of the young slave girls who, at the time, did their duties bare chested. Once, the girl wasn't serving dinner as she usual would have done, but Susanna served it herself, astonishing her husband when he found out that what he was served were the severed breasts of the young slave girl. At the southern end of the square, there's the modernistic congress building. Commissioned by former president Wijdenbosch. It was supposed to be ready for some important foreign delegation coming over. The building was finished in a rush, resulting in leakage and cracked concrete almost immediately after finishing the building. Between the southern and eastern side, a circle of flags are supposed to represent the countries that run an embassy in Suriname. Close to the flags, a monument remembering the Surinamese volunteers serving in the Dutch army during the second world war and a tree, planted in honor of the Hindustani immigrants can be found. At the eastern side of the square the national assembly, the house of commons, overlooks the square. When we were standing in front of the building, Annerine, the girl whom we had gone to Cola Creek with (see later), bumped into us. She had set her sights on visiting the presidential palace, on the northern end of the square, but before we got even close to the entrance, we were stopped by a group of angry looking men with machine guns. Some persistence resulted in us being directed to the presidential residence, to the side of the palace. After some asking around, we were giving an interview by phone with the relevant government employee, who told us that, in fact, it is possible to visit the palace, but only after requesting a visit in writing. Then, as soon as one or two months later, you could expect an invitation from the president himself. In 1995, the then Dutch minister of foreign affairs assigned some 12 million euros for renovating the palace which was vacated by the Dutch in 1975 and hadn't been occupied since. That is, the monkeys that had set up shop in the building were moved to the palm tree garden near the back of the palace. Close to the president's residence, Baba and Mai look out over the busy traffic route in front of them. The statues, an old Hindustani couple, symbolise immigration. Below the statues, a line of text reads 'Where I fare well, that's where my fatherland is'. [iCategory] => 12 [tURL] => [iViews] => 4982 [iClicks] => 0 [iRating] => 0 [iVote] => 14 [iVoters] => 3 [iRedirect] => 0 [tISBN] => [iLocation] => 877 [iOldID] => 1223 [tCover] => [iAccess] => 1462106484 [iHot] => 0 [tTemplateName] => default [iHideMap] => 0 [iForSale] => 0 [iImages] => 5 [iFullImage] => 0 [fLatitude] => 5.82628 [fLongitude] => -55.1517 [tLocation] => Onafhankelijkheidsplein [iPrimaryCategoryFeatured] => 0 [tCategory] => Blog [iCategoryFeatured] => 0 [iPrimaryCategory] => 12 [categories] => Array ( [12] => Array ( [iID] => 12 [tName] => Blog [tSlug] => blog [tDescription] => Find my upcoming travel plans over at Dopplr and a listing of major (and some minor) travelogues over on the travelogues section. [iOrder] => 1 [iActive] => 1 [tType] => article [tTemplateName] => default [iFeatured] => 0 [iPrimary] => 1 ) ) [flickrTag] => 20030129 ) ) ) Keyword: Paramaribo ::